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Pirate John's Ride Report
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The first 2,400 miles ...
At the bottom of the page I want to thank my friends and sponsors who have
helped me, not just on the 50cc, but generally over the years. Without
your help and contributions I would never have gotten this far.
And here are some links that you might find amuzing --
Photos from this trip at http://www.fototime.com/inv/026829AF06F4104
Details on the Franken-K, a muchly modified K1100RS BMW at http://www.fototime.com/inv/BBA42EF164A2EF4
^^^^^^^
Lemme see ... it's been almost three weeks since I returned from the West Coast.
The feeling has come back into most of my body. Many of my compatriots
were out riding competitive events the weekend after the 50cc; as for myself, I
went out hitting the local pubs in celebration. I noticed last weekend as
I rode across the Vilano Beach Bridge into St. Augustine that I *still* have not
quite gotten my inner ear back in order. You've got to laugh!
But(t) to start at the beginning ...
50cc. Coast to coast in 50 hours or less. On whatever motorcycle you
want to ride (*NO*, the event is not restricted to mopeds and other 50cc bikes,
despite the name!) An insidious invention of the Iron Butt Association;
check out www.ironbutt.com
Now, lemme say this about that (to quote the late Richard Nixon) ... I get a
kick out of the Ironbutt Association and the whole LDRider community. A
buncha good natured guys and gals who run up big miles on their motorcycles.
People with a sense of humour.
A motorcycling writer that I respect (are you listening, Mr. Higdon?) once wrote
that we really shouldn't write about fatigue, high speeds, or dangerous stunts
when discussing Ironbutt events.
So we'll conclude this tale in about another 2 paragraphs.
Just kidding.
Just for the record it is, indeed, possible to ride from coast to coast in 50
hours at legal speeds and with a reasonable amount of sleep. I
inadvertently demonstrated this when my inner ear went weird early in this ride
and it became uncomfortable for me to ride much over 60 mph in a cross wind.
So I must say that I admire pholks who can ride a 50cc. Or a 100ccc, even.
Or any of the other Ironbutt Association events. This ain't an undertaking
to take lightly.
But(t) I digress.
My own, sordid, personal tale follows.
Originally, I had planned to take a leisurely vacation to central Mexico.
Then a friend turned me on to some good-natured scoundrels who were planning a
mass 50cc attempt. After suffering from pretty damned near terminal
bronchitis during the previous year, I thought long and hard about doing a 50cc
and decided that I'd give it a stab. After all, you never can tell what
the future would bring.
Central Mexico would wait.
The Robomantis went into the garage. The Franken-K came out of
hibernation.
The K's a great bike for these kinds of events. She just needs a better
pilot ;)
Early in 2002 ol' John decided to get back into shape for long distance riding.
A few longish trips, a few misadventures. Some mods to the 'K. The
big day arrives. I'm prepared ... not as well prepared as I'd like, but I
can realistically do this.
And preparation's important. You don't just hop on a bike and ride across
the USA. Well ... you don't when you're an arthritic olde pharte like me,
who wants to do the trip in 50 hours. Let's put it that-a-way.
I told my bestus friend, the Merry Widow, that I thought the odds were 7 out of
10 that I could ride coast to coast in 50 hours or less. Decent odds, but
I had so much invested in this gig, emotionally and financially, that I felt
like I **HAD** to be successful.
Despite what I thought was intense preparation I was still at home, 2 miles from
the start, making last minute additions to the bike at 20 minutes before the
scheduled start.
I arrive at what I thought was the scheduled time to find that most of the
riders had already left. And friends, including the designated witness,
were not really happy that they had been hanging around aimlessly to see me
start.
Oh, boy.
A kiss, a hug, a handshake or two. Credit card into the fuel pump to
establish a time ... start the timer on the bike's dashboard ... and I'm off.
I'm lucky, because I live very near the starting point. In fact, I'm the
closest Iron Butt Association member to Jacksonville Beach, which is a popular
endpoint for these coast-to-coast adventures. And I know the local roads.
So I'm down the road, at an impressive pace. Old bicycle racing stuff:
shake out the cobwebs early and then settle in. And make some time when
you can.
I pass a rider. He doesn't look happy.
I pass Alan. He waves and smiles.
(A word here: Alan Leduc organized this shindig, and I'll be forever in his
debt. He did an excellent job. Alan and crew plotted out *EVERY*
exit from coast to coast, and warned us of places where there was no 24 hour
fuel. He also devised several schedules, of which ol' John followed the
184 mile between stops schedule religiously. Alan done good!)
I'm getting ready to pass another rider and he bops off the Interstate just
before I catch him. I realize that he's most likely following a 140 mile
schedule. Looking down at the exit I see another motorcycle refueling.
Ah, technology ... I have a GPS and I've programmed all of the stops, and
the places without fuel, into The Box. All that I have to do is to follow
the arrows. It sounds so simple when I say it like that.
That's the good news. The bad news is that after about the first hour my
cruise control quits working.
I felt that the cruise control, at least this early into the 50cc, was critical.
This wasn't good.
At precisely 180 miles the first fuel stop comes up. I almost miss the
exit.
Get to the Exxon station. Fuel up quickly. Run to the men's room.
And now ... pull the bodywork off the bike. What in the hell is wrong with
the cruise control??
The answer's obvious. And simple. A vacuum line has popped off.
But, dammit ... when I installed the cruise control I managed to hook the vacuum
line into the least accessible place possible!
Tools come out. Alan rides up, smiles and shakes his head.
Maintenance this early ain't good. He's fueled and gone. Alan's a
textbook example of how a stop should be done; quickly and efficiently.
And I'm still screwing with rerouting that vacuum line in case this happens
again.
Dammit.
(A quick word on the electronic cruise control, manufactured by MotorCycle Setup
Pty. Ltd., and Australian company, and which you can read about at http://www.mccruise.com/
. Frank and his brother have been very, very supportive of my 50cc
attempt, and their product is excellent. It's above excellent; this one
was custom made for a K1100RS. And in thousands of miles of testing I had
no trouble whatsoever. And I've had no trouble since. It's just that
when there's trouble, it's inevitably at the worse possible time, right??)
Back on the road.
Immediately it starts to rain. Which I had expected.
Now, rain in Florida is not necessarily a bad thing. It keeps the heat
down. And knocks the dust off the 'gators and water moccasins.
It rained. The weather is getting cooler and at the next fuel stop a
change of jackets is in order.
And the winds pick up.
It's raining, and I'm running at speeds under the limit.
I keep plugging on. I had expected it to rain until about New Orleans and
that turned out to be an accurate prediction.
But man, was it getting windy!
And that's about when it happened.
Going into Mobile, Alabama you cross a long, long causeway and bridge.
Many miles across Mobile Bay. One of the other guys would later comment
about how scary those crosswinds were when crossing that long, long bridge.
Honestly ... I think that I was too scared to notice. And I'm starting to
have balance problems whenever I get hit with a crosswind.
Around Slidell, Louisiana the rains stop but it's still surprisingly cold.
This is about 500 miles into a 2,400 mile trip. I'm OK ... but not comfy.
There are high bridges at Lake Charles and Baton Rouge. The kind that
ships pass underneath. I hate high bridges under the best of
circumstances. Gotta concentrate. Look out for those
slippery-as-snot metal gratings ... stay near the center. Don't look over
the edges, but concentrate on the median. The leftmost lane would be a
good place to be, John. I breathe a sigh of relief whenever a bridge is
crossed.
Lake Charles marked the 750 mile point from JAX Beach. I was looking at my
timers and I was slightly ahead of schedule for riding a BBG (Burn Burner Gold,
or 1,500 miles in 24 hours). Slightly ahead ... but not by much.
So far, so good.
Floriduh ... Alabama ... Mississippi ... Louisiana ... and then Texas.
Ever since I owned a truckin' company, which was over a decade ago, the roads
around Beaumont, TX have been pretty crappy. They haven't changed much
since then.
I'm beginning to realize that I'm just not comfortable at higher speeds.
As in, riding at the posted speed limit. Forget those ultra-legal speeds
which I had thought that I might use to get me across country if necessary.
The cross winds have whacked out (a medical term) my inner ear.
Whenever I get off the bike I'm walking like one leg is longer than the other.
I feel like I'm wearing out my tires on one side only.
This ain't no fun.
And on top of that, Texas and I aren't getting along. All of that
pavement, of different textures, is driving me nutz. And whoever sold
Texas a hundred grooving machines should be shot. Later I was to concede
that Texas pavement wasn't really that bad, just different. But the damage
was done.
Houston rolls around. I pull off the ramp where the GPS sez that I should
and can't find my fuel stop.
Now I'm tired. I'm about ready to get back on I-10 when I see the service
station, hidden, on the other side of the ramp. Bop on over. Now the
pump won't take my card. I walk in, thinking this is a waste of time, and
can't quite seem to make the Pakistani gentleman at the counter understand what
I want. Grrrr ...
Tired and cranky. That's a bad Pirate.
The sun's going down and I'm only 14 hours into a 50 hour ride. And either
my eyesight is failing, or my headlight's failing, because I cannot see very
well. 60mph is about the fastest pace that I feel comfortable with.
It's amazing how quickly that I'm willing to accept that my eyesight isn't what
it used to be.
(In San Diego I was to discover that the little switch to adjust the angle of my
headlight was in the wrong position. Funny. As simple as that.
And to add insult to injury my large driving light was blowing fuses like mad
and I didn't trust it. Ironic, considering the hundreds and hundreds of
miles that I had ridden at night to prepare for this journey. All that
preparation, and my lighting was merely mediocre, and the cures were relatively
simple.)
San Antonio arrives. It's about midnight local time. I've covered
about 1,100 miles of the 2,400 required. I'm a few hours ahead of Alan's
schedule. And I know what happens from this point; we go out into the
desert.
I dunno if you've ever been in the Southwestern desert before, but I'll give you
a hint. You've never seen so many miles of nothingness in your life.
And I wasn't crazy about my odds of getting a motel room at 4AM in the middle of
nowhere.
So I checked into a Motel 6 for a few hours sleep.
5.5 hours sleep, to be exact.
No dinner and no breakfast. I was out the door before the wake up call
came.
Back on the road, and boogying out of San Antonio at 4AM.
Well ... Alan had routed us around a bypass to avoid traffic but at 7AM on a
Sunday I was willing to take I-10 right through downtown San Antonio.
Unfortunately, the scheduled fuel stop was on the bypass. Something that
didn't dawn on me until my warning light came on.
Sometimes you just have to love technology. The new GPS units have a
database of the services available at all of the Interstate exits. I was
very low on fuel, and not looking forward to joining the pedestrian class, but
Mr. GPS said that 12 miles away was a service station. Hey I can make
that!!
Imagine my surprise when (duhhhh ...) I looked up at the very next exit to see a
big ol' Chevron sign.
Fuel up and go!
The sun's coming up, and I'm amazed at the number of Honda Goldwings that I see.
I've seen it written that the national truck of Texas is the suburban.
That may be true, but from what I have seen the national motorcycle is the
Goldwing.
Man, there were Goldwings everywhere. I met so many that I thought there
was a Goldwing convention somewhere nearby. That is, until I started to
catch a group of 'em. This group was going in the opposite direction.
That's when I realized that all those Goldwingers were just out for a pleasant
weekend ride.
And I pressed on.
Then I began to see my first high wind warnings out in the desert.
Now, on top of the "normal" wind warnings, the Weather Channel was
predictin' unusually high winds.
Fawkin wonderful.
I'm here in the middle of Nowhere, and I oughta be able to boogie, but 60mph
looks comfortable. And as soon as I start to get above that speed a
crosswind will inevitably come along, I'll wobble across the lane, and slow
right back down.
Lovely.
Any kind of bridge has become a terror, and any sort of height over about 18
inches is making me jumpy. An I'm in the hills of Texas, beginning to go
up into the western US mountains.
Still, I'm ahead of schedule,
Time to assess the pains. My left shoulder is killing me. And my
neck hurts. Hands are killing me. Thank God for that cruise control.
Where's that aspirin?
A big dawg I'll never be.
But I'm having fun.
I think.
I haven't seen any of the other riders since that first fuel stop. And
this is what ... fuel stop number nine? It's been a while. Does
everyone know something that I don't??
Onward.
El Paso comes up. The Texas roads improve. I boogie right on up to,
oh, the speed limit. And every time I get rolling a wind hits and I'm
suddenly about 10mph below the speed limit.
Tucson comes around. The sun's going down, and suddenly my Valentine radar
detector starts making a noise that I've never heard before. I look at the
display and I see "L" for laser. Is it the sun going down, or
are they testing something at Davis Mothan Air Force Base that I really don't
want shining on me? I'm not sure.
Onward.
I-10 splits off towards Los Angeles and Phoenix. I take I-8 to San Diego.
For the first time I see signs directing me to San Diego.
Damn ... I'm almost there! Only, oh ... 400 or 500 miles to go!
It occurs to me that, being a well-traveled old pharte, I've seen every bit of
these roads at one time or another except this stretch of I-8. Hmmmm ...
The sun is down, and I'm cruising along at 60mph again. Not fast, but I'm
about 5 or 6 hours ahead of schedule. I figure that I'm OK.
I stop at the second to last scheduled stop and start to shoot the breeze with
some local riders. While I'm there one of our other riders shows up.
First guy from this group that I've seen for over a day.
He looks tired. And he asks me if it's OK if he rides behind me. I
say "sure." I'm tired, and with my inner ear on the fritz
I'm just taking it easy.
Later he'd tell me that he was suffering from double vision and had only gotten
30 minutes sleep on the whole trip. Whoa.
So we set out for the remaining 350 miles. We're both tired, but we'll
make it. Right??
We did a few extra stops. But we're plugging along.
And then the weather starts to get nasty.
It looks just like a snowstorm. But that's impossible, right?
We continue.
Damn, it's getting cold. And windy.
I don't even have any long sleeve shirts with me, but the winter jacket is out
and the electric vest is cranked up to full blast.
Dammit. It's really cold. What's going on???
Now ... I always thought that my geography was pretty good. And I have
friends in San Diego. Hell, I belong to the San Diego BMW bike club and
the local Parrothead club. But no one, and I mean NO ONE had ever told me
... that there's a fawkin' MOUNTAIN RANGE, complete with ALPINE PASSES within 50
miles of the coast!!!!
Here on the East Coast we give our visitors at least 500 miles of warnings
before they hit the mountains. And even then they can usually journey
through the passes if they play your cards right.
Not on I-8 going into San Diego.
We went up. And up. Through 5,500 ft. altitude. And it got
colder. And the wind blew harder.
I don't think that I've ever seen a curvier stretch of Interstate, to tell you
the truth.
Finally, we hit The Corner. Picture this. It's 3:30AM, there's no
moon, it's blacker than your wurst nightmare, the winds are blowing at gale
levels. You approach an extremely steeply banked corner ... the kind where
you couldn't possibly stop on a motorcycle. And then the wind REALLY hits.
I got knocked from about 50 mph down to about 35 mph. And blown from one
lane to the next. I was watching the guy riding behind me; he got blown
into the next lane, too, but didn't fall. That was good.
An Indian casino appeared at the top of the mountain and we stopped to warm up.
This sucked. My knees are shaking. I seriously thought about
abandoning the ride. With 40 miles to go. Check out www.viejas.com
in Alpine (love that name!) California to get an idea of this place. Or at
least, what the place looks like in warmer weather.
15 minutes later we had warmed up and it was time to go. The clerk
at the casino commented that trucks were getting blown over on both sides of the
mountain.
Bloody wonderful.
We started to descend. And we descended quickly.
Cars were whipping by like we were standing still.
I was riding the brakes, maintaining a 60 mph pace. Which was about the
limit of my headlights. And my nerves.
We descended. Through 4,000 ft.
Through 3,000 ft.
Through 2,000 ft.
Finally ... we were at lower altitudes and I knew it. Thank you Lord.
The high winds on descent never materialized.
Stop for a quick break. And back on the bike.
And follow that GPS arrow to the final service station near the beaches in San
Diego.
As we get near the end my companion livens up and races to the front. He's
got the final directions memorized. I follow him as well as the GPS.
Off the Interstate and onto San Diego city streets.
Success! The charge card goes into the pump, and the receipt
indicates that I've got over 2 hours to spare.
Elation, punctuated with relief. I knew that I could do it, if I just
concentrated.
Back at the motel, there are several motorcycles in the lot. Alan's bike
is there. We are to later find out that we're not the last arrivals, but
pretty darned close.
Now to get some sleep!
At the celebratory luncheon the next day it's revealed that everyone who made it
to Jacksonville ultimately made it to San Diego on time. Three folks
abandoned en-route to Jacksonville, nine folks completed 50cc's, and two guys
completed 100cc's (coast-to-coast and return in 100 hours).
Gentlemen ... my hat's off to all of you. One helluva a tough crew!!
And if poor ol' John -- with killer arthritis, a bad attitude, and vertigo --
can ride from coast to coast in 48 hours then I suggest that most of us can
accomplish quite a bit if we put our minds to our goals. Planning and
persistence, not to mention that sense of humour, go a long way!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Friends and supporters of the ol' Pirate that I'd like to mention:
BMW of Daytona. Without whom I'd simply be sitting at home rather than
riding. These good pholks have bailed me out several times. Thanks
guys, and especially Norm, who I had the good fortune to meet long before he
bought the dealership. Great people. http://www.bmwcyclesdaytona.com
MotorCycle Setup Pty. Ltd. of Australia. Tony and Frank provided me with
an electronic cruise control which, because of the arthritis that I've
developed, was absolutely critical to this effort. Their product is great
and has worked flawlessly for thousands of miles. Thanks guys! Check out http://www.mccruise.com/
SouthTour.biz. There's nothing on the site as I write this, but I expect
that it will be up and running in a few months. Some pals who will be
selling many of the products that I used, and many more. www.southtour.biz
Dessy Hydration Systems. A South African company, these good people were
able to give me something that sounds so simple but I couldn't find anywhere on
the American market: a water bottle with a drinking tube which fit into a
standard bicycle racing bottle holder. Plenty of water is a key to
avoiding fatigue, and I carried two of these bottles on the trip. www.dessy.co.za
And not to forget ... my friends at the Broken Spoke Saloon in Jacksonville, who
kept me fed and in the proper frame of mind before and after the 50cc.
And finally ... my pal Laszlo at Royal Auto Repair in Jacksonville. Laszlo
is without a doubt the best Romanian Mercedes repair person in Florida.
And when it comes to mechanical advice, Laszlo has always been there for me.
A true friend. Thanks, Mon!
*******************************************************************
The ol'
Pirate's home page can be found at: http://members.aol.com/PirateJohn/pirate1.html
-- jokes, travel tales, music, and motorcycle links start at: http://members.aol.com/PirateJohn/funlinks.html
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